wilderness

Mt. Marcy via Van Hoevenberg Trail, Adirondack Mountains, High Peaks Region, 16 Miles RT, 3,734' +/-, 5,344' Max Elevation, September 20, 2021

Mt. Marcy via Van Hoevenberg Trail, Adirondack Mountains, High Peaks Region, 16 Miles RT, 3,734' +/-, 5,344' Max Elevation, September 20, 2021

“The love of wilderness is more than a hunger for what is always beyond reach; it is also an expression of loyalty to the earth ... the only home we shall ever know, the only paradise we ever need -- if only we had the eyes to see.” -- Edward Abbey (American writer and naturalist)

After over a year we were finally back in the mountains. Leaving California with its limitless peaks and vast wilderness and relocating to an area of Northeastern Pennsylvania which lacks high-elevation mountains was a very hard adjustment for me. We decided to drive to upstate New York and hike the High Peaks Region in the Adirondack Mountains. We would set up basecamp in Lake Placid, sleep one night and the next morning hike from Adirondack Loj on the Van Hoevenberg Trail to the top of Mt. Marcy, the highest peak in New York state. The journey would be an arduous climb of over 16 miles, most of which required bouldering, rock scrambling and climbing up large and oftentimes slippery slabs of rock. It had been over a year since I’d done any hiking with much elevation, but I craved the challenge and the rewards that come with reaching the summit after putting in a hard day’s work on the trail.

We arrived at Adirondack Loj at 5:30 am, about an hour before sunrise. We donned our headlamps and headed out on the Van Hoevenberg trail towards Marcy Dam. The trail was mostly easy going for the first two miles. We moved quickly to the first junction, and as we reached the dam the sun was starting to come up. We took a moment to enjoy the views of Mt. Colden, Avalanche Mountain and Wright Peak, but we couldn’t linger knowing we had a lot more miles to cover. We crossed the bridge over Marcy Brook and began to ascend on a moderate grade as we hiked along Phelps Brook. We passed the junction to Phelps Mountain and from here we began a steep climb up the trail which was covered in nothing but boulders. After the first steep pitch, the trail crossed Marcy Brook and briefly leveled off for a short distance as we passed the junction to Indian Falls. At about 5 miles in we began another steep ascent which seemed like endless scrambling and climbing. The terrain was slippery in sections and required a lot of mental concentration and careful foot placement. As we reached the top of the ridge, I began to see hints of blue sky. I knew we were getting closer. Now, the trail eased slightly except for the mud and the obstacle course of wooden planks we had to negotiate, and we began to get our first views of Mt. Marcy. We hiked through thick scrub and scrambled up more barefaced boulders before reaching the Alpine Zone. We were starting to get above the treeline, and I was beginning to feel anxious as the climbing got even harder and steeper. Higher and higher we ascended, scrambling the bare rock and slabs. We followed the cairns and the yellow paint blazes guiding the way straight up. And then, finally, we were there… standing on the summit of Mt. Marcy, the highest peak in New York State at 5,344 feet. It was an amazing feeling! One I haven’t felt since leaving the mountains of California. We took in the views and fueled up on snacks, but the moment could not last because we knew we had miles of strenuous descent before we could finally relax and celebrate. The climb back down the mountain was even more taxing. We were tired both physically and mentally, and the amount of concentration it took to descend the boulders and rocks was even more laborious then it was going up. It was about 6:30 pm when we finally reached the Loj. We were tired, sore and even a little delirious, but it was an incredible day and one which we will not soon forget.

Hiking Mt. Marcy was both a physical and mental challenge. It pushed us to our limits. There comes a point in hikes like these when you know you’re stretching yourself, but you just can’t turn back because you don’t want to waste all the effort you’ve already put in so you just keep pushing. The feeling of reaching a hard earned summit is a feeling that’s difficult to describe. It becomes an addiction. It’s a challenge not everyone will have the privilege of experiencing. It’s a journey that makes you stronger and brings you closer to those who are on that same journey. And although the moment of reaching the summit may be fleeting compared to the hours you put in to get there, it will always be worth it.

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Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area: Sunfish Pond via Garvey Springs, Appalachian Trail, Douglas Trail, Rockcores Trail, 7 Miles RT, 1,345 +/-, April 24, 2021

Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area:   Sunfish Pond via Garvey Springs, Appalachian Trail, Douglas Trail, Rockcores Trail, 7 Miles RT, 1,345 +/-, April 24, 2021

I’m really loving the Delaware Water Gap. There are so many trails here to link together to make the most out of your day. I admit it’s been hard for me to find the challenges I had hiking out west, but I’m finding that there are some places, such as the DWG, where you can get a little climbing in and also link up trails to add some decent mileage. Today we hiked to Sunfish Pond, a 44-acre glacial lake located on the Kittatinny Ridge. It lies within the Worthing State Forest on the New Jersey side of the DWG. We took the steepest, shortest route up to the lake via the Garvey Springs Trail which has a respectable gain of 1,058’ in 1.2 miles. There’s a more gradual ascent up the Douglas Trail from the same trailhead, which we planned to take on the return. Laurel Falls is also a nice feature to see that’s right at the start of the Douglas Trail if you go up that way. It was a somewhat chilly morning, but the sun was out and the ascent got us warmed up fast. The trail leads through a hardwood forest, and I saw some patches of bluets (wildflowers) along the path. As we hiked, two wild turkeys crossed the trail up ahead. The trail became more and more rocky as we got closer to the top of the ridge. We leveled off for a short distance and Sunfish Pond came into view. Next, we made our way onto the Appalachian trail which runs along the western and northern shores of the lake. The trail here was mostly rock hopping large rocks and boulders with a few breaks in between. There were some campsites on the way to sit on a log and enjoy views of the serene lake. There were also some alcoves to climb the rocks out onto the water to get a closer view. I very much enjoyed the scenery here and hiking along the shores. On the western side of the lake there’s a stone monument and a plaque marking Sunfish Pond as a registered natural landmark. We continued following the AT as it moved away from the lake on a wider path that was much less rocky. We reached a backpacker campsite where there were several campers. We then connected to the Douglas Trail and began to descend. When we reached the junction with the Rockcores Trail, we decided to take it northeast and then connect back to the Garvey Springs Trail. The Rockcores Trail passes Laurel Falls on the drainage from Sunfish Pond. There was a steep use trail that made a beeline along the drainage, but I wanted to hike further so we kept on following Rockcores until linking back up with Garvey Springs. It was now about 11:30 am and as we approached the trailhead, I could see that parking was already at maximum capacity. I looked over at Laurel Falls and there were some hikers trying to climb on top of the waterfall. One of them slipped and fell, but luckily was okay. It always makes me wonder what makes people do the things they do. As we made our way to the car, someone was already asking for our parking spot. We packed up our gear and headed out. I had a really nice time on this hike. It had a little bit of a challenge and the lake was a beautiful early morning destination.

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